We went to Narberth on Saturday. So did a lot of other shoppers. There was the added bonus of a craft fair, too. The shops were so crowded, Peter waited outside most of them.
Narberth is a jewel of a town, transformed in the last twenty or so years by little boutique shops, all privately owned.
'The Maltings' an antique emporium, exotic as any souk, is one of my favourite goody-bag places. It is large and rambling, but encloses small shop units, all displaying different things.
My Melyn Tregwynt blankets are from here, one in blue, one in a purple, pink and black pattern. I am looking for a red one next. I have bought cotton, crochet-edged sheets for the bed, and abundant teacloths and tray cloths in fine needlework.
Hats, bags, teasets, Sir Kyffin Williams paintings, furs, easy chairs and a whole kaleidoscope of treasures all await the enthusiatic shopper.
Athough the 'Maltings' was full, I found a unit with no-one browsing, so I went in. Alas and alack, (I don't mean to sound like Dame Trot from the rhyme), I was immediately followed by a family of four adults.
Comfortably, there was room for two people. I decided on my exit strategy, which involvied a tight right turn and straight out. I glanced, only glanced, at the handbags and the family followed me, going through the bags with intense interest. There were three other corners in the room, and I'm sure if I had gone to them, they would have followed.
I've seen this phenomenon many times, people developing an interest in what someone else is looking at.
I was in a Carmarthen store one day, reaching for a pot of jam, and a woman put her head under my arm to get something from the shelf.
Saccharine sweetly, I said: 'I'm so sorry. I would have moved if I'd realised.'
'Don't move. I've got it now' she replied quite insouciantly.
If I only hesitate to look at something in a shop window, people gather round and stare at it with interest.
There must be a label for this psychological condition: 'annoying fellow shoppers syndrome', comes to mind.
Enough was more than sufficient. Narberth was too busy for us. We decided to come back mid-week but the question is, what makes this little town so successful?
It helps that it looks like something out of Enid Blyton's Toytown. (Noddy and Big Ears might just go by in their car with the 'parpy' horn.)
There are little tea-rooms, a surf shop, three art galleries, a newspaper shop, a hairstylist a chemist, a Clock Tower with a shop, a bargain box shop, three shoe shops, three grocers. Magical.
'To think there's this place, in the back of beyond, with all these goodies', one shopper from Cardiff said.
Well, get down here quickly for your Christmas gifts, I say.
The 'Snow Queen' and her carnival will drive by one night in December. Mulled wine and a mince pie, anyone?
Monday, 24 October 2011
The Great Divide
A twelfth century time traveller would have no difficulty in recognising present day Haverfordwest.
Approaching the town from the east, the outlines of the churches of St Thomas a Becket, St Mary's and the spire of St Martin's together with that of the Norman castle dominate the horizon, a perpetual testament to the skill of the medieval stone-masons' craft.
'To Haverfordwest, from the earliest period, there was a degree of consequence attached', wrote Fenton, the Fishguard historian.
Romans, Scandinavians and warring Norsemen came to this part of Pembrokeshire from the fourth century onwards. A small town developed, in response to the need for protection and to establsih a centre of trade.
Following the Battle of Hastings, the Normans established their control over this country and over Pembrokeshire.
It was the military, occupying presence of the Normans that brought about the most profound changes to the life of the town.
Pembrokeshire was carved in two, the northern area governed by Martin de Tours and the south of the county by the ruthless Arnulph de Montgomery.
Of the de Montgomery family, Henry of Huntingdon wrote: 'Their sins were enough to frighten the devils themselves'.
The Welsh in the southern part of the county sought sanctuary in the Preseli Mountains, becoming refugees in their own land, the king displaying an arrogant disregard for their needs.
De Montgomery was allowed to keep his ill-gotten gains and populate the southern areas with English settlers.
The Normans were brilliant strategists, consolidating their victory and and forcing the Welsh to remain in the north of the county. Soon, a line of Norman castles scarred the landscape, effectively separating the north from the south.
Castles were built in Laugharne, Narberth, Wiston, Haverfordwest, Camrose and Roch, Carew and Pembroke, ruled by Norman barons.
Psychologically and linguistically, they created a divide that became known as the Landsker line. Those living in North Pembrokeshire spoke Welsh and those in the south, English.
Haverfordwest Castle is a prime example of eleventh century European military architecture, and was an important garrison in the line of defence.
For the Welsh, these castles became a hated symbol of subjugation, a constant reminder of an alien military force.
A potent reminder of their legacy is that south Pembrokeshire is become known as 'Little England Beyond Wales', the inhabitants mainly speaking English. In the north of Pembrokeshire, Welsh is an important part of everyday life.
Thus, the legacy of the Normans lives on.
Approaching the town from the east, the outlines of the churches of St Thomas a Becket, St Mary's and the spire of St Martin's together with that of the Norman castle dominate the horizon, a perpetual testament to the skill of the medieval stone-masons' craft.
'To Haverfordwest, from the earliest period, there was a degree of consequence attached', wrote Fenton, the Fishguard historian.
Romans, Scandinavians and warring Norsemen came to this part of Pembrokeshire from the fourth century onwards. A small town developed, in response to the need for protection and to establsih a centre of trade.
Following the Battle of Hastings, the Normans established their control over this country and over Pembrokeshire.
It was the military, occupying presence of the Normans that brought about the most profound changes to the life of the town.
Pembrokeshire was carved in two, the northern area governed by Martin de Tours and the south of the county by the ruthless Arnulph de Montgomery.
Of the de Montgomery family, Henry of Huntingdon wrote: 'Their sins were enough to frighten the devils themselves'.
The Welsh in the southern part of the county sought sanctuary in the Preseli Mountains, becoming refugees in their own land, the king displaying an arrogant disregard for their needs.
De Montgomery was allowed to keep his ill-gotten gains and populate the southern areas with English settlers.
The Normans were brilliant strategists, consolidating their victory and and forcing the Welsh to remain in the north of the county. Soon, a line of Norman castles scarred the landscape, effectively separating the north from the south.
Castles were built in Laugharne, Narberth, Wiston, Haverfordwest, Camrose and Roch, Carew and Pembroke, ruled by Norman barons.
Psychologically and linguistically, they created a divide that became known as the Landsker line. Those living in North Pembrokeshire spoke Welsh and those in the south, English.
Haverfordwest Castle is a prime example of eleventh century European military architecture, and was an important garrison in the line of defence.
For the Welsh, these castles became a hated symbol of subjugation, a constant reminder of an alien military force.
A potent reminder of their legacy is that south Pembrokeshire is become known as 'Little England Beyond Wales', the inhabitants mainly speaking English. In the north of Pembrokeshire, Welsh is an important part of everyday life.
Thus, the legacy of the Normans lives on.
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